Microneedling
Also known as collagen induction therapy, dermaroller, dermapen
Controlled needle injury to stimulate collagen. Genuinely useful in clinic, mostly theatre at home.
US $200–500 per clinical session; a series of 3–6 sessions.
How it works
Fine needles create microchannels in the dermis, triggering the wound healing cascade and subsequent collagen and elastin deposition. Depth determines effect — meaningful dermal remodelling requires 1.0mm or more, which is beyond safe home use.
How it's used
Clinical treatment uses a motorised pen at 0.5–2.5mm depth, three to six sessions spaced four weeks apart. At home, stay at or below 0.5mm and prioritise hygiene — most home devices are best understood as enhancing product absorption rather than remodelling collagen. Never microneedle over active acne, and never combine with vitamin C or retinoids immediately after.
Trade-offs
In favour
- Improves acne scarring and texture
- Safe across all skin tones
- Cheaper than laser
- Minimal downtime
Against
- Multiple sessions needed for modest gains
- Home devices are far less effective than clinical treatment
- Poor hygiene causes infection and scarring
- Inferior to RF microneedling and laser for significant scarring
Risks and side effects
- Infection from unsterile or reused needles
- Tracking marks and scarring from excessive depth or dragging
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Granuloma formation if products are driven into the dermis
- Spread of active acne or cold sores
Recovery
Redness and mild swelling for 1–3 days, similar to sunburn. Light flaking. Makeup from day 2.
How good is the evidence?
Reasonable evidence for acne scarring and texture; effect sizes are modest and home-device evidence is weak.
Sources
Sources point to guideline bodies and literature searches rather than single papers, so they stay accurate as the evidence moves.